**KASHMIR** The SilverBell

Welcome to the wonderful HB SILVERBELL. My home for 2 months. A houseboat of peace and wonder. Where dreams meet reality or reality meets dreams - not quite sure which is which anymore. Either way, it has been a Winter wonderland for me, and the transition into Spring blooms new hopes, sunshine, and birds. Oh the birds! The Silverbell, floating on the majestic Nigin Lake, is situated in the Srinagar Valley, within the Himilayan mountains enmeshed in every direction.

Come night time, witnessing the houseboat and the shikara, Kashmiri for canoe, on Nigin Lake is too real to comprehend. Each night I return for sleep, I stare out onto the lake still stunned that life here exists the way it actually exists. But first comes mealtime.For the first feast at the Dandoo household, the family becomes thrilled when I enter the eating room with my farend on. A farend is the winter time poncho worn by both men and women. Though looking like a dress, this wollen garb actually provides not only comfort and style, but heat as well. In the photo below, you can see that within the farend, one places what is called a Konger, or mini fire in a hand made straw basket. (Sorry you have to see my pasty white legs). A portable heating system with the potential for disaster. One time, while sitting on the veranda of the houseboat, I was listening to some music, but with one earjack in, and the other tucked away. I soon realized that the other wasn't exactly tucked away, instead it roasting in the konger. I thought I had smelled some burning, and now I listen to my music with just one earjack. Well, besides the accidents, the konger, or Winter Wife, as Manzoor calls it, becomes my ally during the cold times.

Delhi Shots

This is young Inabhat. She is Manzoors niece who lives in Delhi with her mother, Manzoors sister, and family. Many of the people I meet and develop a rapport with, seem to take fancy in grabbing the sunglasses off my head and wearing them. I don't mind, usually, because it becomes a great opportunity for a picture of the people. Well, she is in school now, and at the age of 6, her English is quite decent - well enough to hold small conversation with me, and also to get a good laugh from her, too. She smiles and laughs which makes me smile and laugh, and, I suppose, thats what makes it great!

A good friend, Jenna, and I met up for a day. She was flying out the next day, so I'm glad we were able to get to hang out even if just for a day. Jenna and I spent some time in Thailand together a few summers ago, so it was really nice and random meeting up with her in India, too. Well, this day, because it was Jenna's last day, we went to a market in Delhi where many vendors came from all over India to sell their products. From carpets in Kashmir, handbags in Rajasthan, and even food from all the different states, too. As tourists, as this was a great tourist destination for shopping, we felt very comfortable doing touristy things, such as trying on straw hats and taking pictures of oursevles. We also really likes these two seats that we both wanted to buy, but as they are kind of inconvenient to travel with, we just sat on them and took a picture of it, hoping we didnt piss the vendors off too much. Well, it was great seeing her as there are not too many familiar faces in India, but thats what travelling is all about. The challenge is not knowing people and simply meeting them and seeing where certain relationships with those people take you.

This relationship took me to the Lotus Temple in Delhi with Manzoor. It is very beautiful due to the architecture of the building - built in the shape of a flower lotus, hence, the Lotus Temple. This is a santuary for the people of the B'hai faith. A very interesting and modern faith. Basically, the premise is lets all love eachother and get along and help those in need regardless of faith. Peace and Love right!

This was my first week in India. Manzoor, on the right, and I rode on my first bicycle rickshaw. I felt bad for the guy biking because he had to lug us along at night back to Manzoors Delhi home. As my excitment rose, we ended up safe sound to enjoy the comforts of heat and a home cooked meal.

Good Hyderabad - The Kites!

Sankranti Festival - The Kites are all over the city. And everyone is atop their terrace to fly them. An entire city in hysteria. It may be difficult to see throught pictures, but try to imagine thousands of kites in the sky all over the city.Beautiful and Colorful are the women. Puneets sisters-in-law and friend, dress up in traditional Hindi garb. They were more of a sight to see than the kites!

I have learned how to fly kites from none other than the greatest kite flyer of them all: Puneet. Puneet is said to be the best. He can cut a kite from any distance. Watching him fly a kite is quite a spectacle, indeed. Even Ojis, just to the right of Puneet, takes fancy at imitating Puneet. Again, he is quite the entertainer.
Night Kite flying was a trip. As the Sankranti festival was my last day/night in Hyderabad, I spent it all day and night flying. Flying high were the kites in the misty dark night. The lights were shining upwards, and the kites so colorful. Thousands of kites were up all day and night, with no time for breaks. A great way for my time in Hyderabad to come to an end.

I wake up the next morning - 5am, to catch a 27 hour train ride back to Delhi. Fun

Good Hyderabad Part 2

New Years - I suppose instead of the traditional new years kiss, its the traditional smash the cake in the face. Face has never tasted so good. Lots of dancing took place. The picture below is of Puneet dancing with his mother, one of my favorite pics. We had a great time on new years. Lots of dancing, and the dancing was not grind grind, much of it was choreographed dancing by Puneets cousins. This woman, Puneets neighbor, is probably my favorite woman I've met in India. Everytime I would walk by her shop, she always greeted me with her hands together in the traditional Nameste position at her heart and a huge smile. Sometimes she would even sneak me a candy. Though she doesn't speak English, and my Hindi at the time consisted only of Namaste and Dandivad (thank you) our interactions were kept at the simple hello, smile, head nod, smile again, and thank you, even though we would just be passing by eachother. Nonetheless, everytime I did pass by her, I would feel as if my day was complete.

Well, one bright and early morning, one of Puneets cousins and I went to the country side to drink from the earth. A beverage that you wouldn't find in any local markets, called Kallu, the name varies from place to place, comes straight out of the tree - a Palm or Coconut tree. In the picture below, you can see the farmer climb the tree and extract the Kallu straight from the tree. This drink, once it ferments, turns into an alcoholic beverage. It is best served in the early morning just after being extracted from the tree. In this case, you drink it before the fermentation process begins. If you drink this in the afternoon, you may get the much anticipated buzz. In the morning, it is said to be good for your stomach, for your digestion. I have found that lots of things that I have taken in, whether food or drink, is good for digestion. I find it delicious, and drink more. I dont feel any alcoholic daze, as said, but I enjoy, nonetheless.

Good Hyderabad Part 1

After a 24 hour train ride from the Taj Mahal, I make it to Hyderabad, one of the main reasons me coming to India.Well, I suppose it didn't take too long before my first play of cricket! At my friend Puneets familys place in the city, Puneets cousins and I gather for some indoor cricket. Puneet and I used to work together, and he graciously invited me to stay with him and his family in Hyderabad while he was visiting, too. I have been learning much about the sport, and at this point, I have a good enough idea on how to actually play. Inside the semi-narrow hall, with concrete walls on each side spreading maybe 10 feet wide and expanding at a length of maybe 30 feet or so, we begin. This frightens me just a little because when the cousins bat - they were up before me to show me how its done - they swung for the fences! And being that the fences were so close to the batter, the fielders were also real close to the batter. This meant - watch your face because the ball is coming, and coming fast! Well, in my 2 or 3 weeks in Hyderabad, there was only one minor bruise when a ball zipped through and nailed one of the cousins in the arm. I felt like he may have needed some assistance, but I suppose there had been worse in the past. Luckily, by and large, we all went by unscathed.

This shot is at a museum of creative manmade bicycles and automobiles. This bicycle made in the guinness book of world records for the largest bike in the world - or so Im told. I wanted to climb up and sit on the seat, but I couldnt let the sketchiness get the best of me. I was fine simply standing at the wheel while the rest of it towered over me.Sarah Rappaport, this ones for you. This is Ojis, one of Puneets cousins. Here, Ojis and I grabbed hands and pushed eachother back and forth while maintaining eye contact, creating a mind boggling, well, mind. Little Ojis provided hours of entertainment with his laughing and dancing. Even at the age of 8, Ojis is a star dancer.

Playing dress-up. Some of the cousins enjoyed entertaining themselves by dressing me up in Indian style garb. This is a traditional Indian garb that men would wear for their wedding, called Sherwani. They had some good laughs at my expense, but its ok, but I was laughing at myself as well. Dont worry, marraige is still not just around the corner!

Paul Rohr and Timmy - This ones for you! The ultimate Indian mullet. I had to sneak this picture because as a foreigner, people sometimes stare at you in manners one would not like to be stared at. But, as a foreigner, I suppose you get used to it.

Sheer Beauty

The Taj Mahal.

I could have stayed here for days just staring at this masterpiece.

When I first arrived here, there was a line just to buy tickets of over an hour. I stood and line and waited patiently just like everyone else. Then a man approached me and offered a proposition. The tickets to get in were around 500 rupees ($10). He offered to sell me a ticket for an additional 500 rupees and I wouldn't have to wait in line. I told him no, I didn't mind waiting. He kept pushing, and slowing lowering his price. "OK, only 400, fine, only 300, but thats the last I can do." I didn't want to pay anymore than the original price. Finaly he confesses. He says, "OK, OK, there is a line for non-Indians, come with me." I was a bit doubtful, but I gave in and followed him. Sure enough there was a line for non-Indians, which I was the second in line, for the same price as everyone else. I don't blame the guy for trying to make some extra cash. I wonder if any tourists have fallen for this scam - I'm sure of it. I'd been here for long enough to know when to call peoples bluffs. Of course I ususally get ripped off whenever I purchase anything, but again, Im used to it at this point.

There are times when I become more amazed at the natural environment and animals that live nearby than the main attraction itself. I find a tree and see a parrot popping in and out of a hole in the tree just next to the Taj. I take many photos and these take the cake.

There are over 20 or so eagles flying in and around the Taj as well. While I wait over 2 hours just to enter the Taj, I take many photos of the eagles just going about their day at the Taj, what a life!

Hey, Hey we're the Monkey's

Monkeys are everywhere in India, especially strolling up a 700 year old fortress once home to past conquerors, such as Akbar in 1596. My first experience with fewer than 20 people was rather enjoyable. The only ones reaching their hands out weren't the people, but the monkeys, and this time they weren't asking for money. They were just hangin' around. The locals must think I am nuts because I am thrilled every time I come close to any monkeys, especially ones right at my feet. After walking up to the fortress, I find and nice place that looks over the entire jungle and meditate on the sheer beauty that still remains.

Ranthambore, a slight detour in the golden triangle, is actually host to an expansive tiger reserve, where tourist flock to witness the few remaining tigers not only in India but also in the world. I arrive just too late to take part on the safari in the evening, so the only plan of action I am able to take if I want to go on the safari is wake up at 330am for a morning trip that leaves at 700am. I arrive at the gate to the place where I need to purchase the tickets at 400am only to find a line already formed, and I thought I was early. I stand in line for over an hour just for them to open the gates to the ticket window. Once they open the gate, I realize it was pointless to have wait in that line as all the people push and shove their way towards the ticket window. Now I am even further past in line because I was unaware of the race to the front. If you are not near the front, the wait just to purchase the tickets was at least another hour. Luckily there is a mens and a womens line, and I see these three Swedish women, whom I met the day before randomly at a restaurant in the middle of nowhere, standing in the womens line. There is always way more men than women at these type of things I have noticed. I approach them with excitement, and they generously offer to purchase my ticket for me. Now I don't have to wait in line, and I have friends on my excursion! These few hours between 4 and 700am have almost been more thrilling than the actual safari itself, well, not really, but again, this adventure before the adventure is becoming a common theme in my travels. During the safari, we see many beautiful wonders, such as deer, antelope, monkeys, peacocks and other colorful birds, and the landscape truly is breathtaking, but the purpose of the trip, to see tigers, remains a mystery as we were unable to lure them for sightseeing. By the look on the others sightseers faces, I could tell they were let down, but after speaking to the manager of my hotel, my mindset was not to expect to see anything, just to enjoy the jungle for its natural beauty, and I wouldn't be let down, especially on a sunrise safari.